Monday, September 15, 2014

Oh Istanbul!

Once you start traveling to different cities around the world, you are of course exposed to different cultures and food, but one of the most interesting things you discover is how other people live. For me, watching locals go about their lives in a uniquely wonderful way is captivating.

At a cafe near the port of Kadikoy, overlooking the Bosphorus, watching the people around me I notice a young couple sitting at the table by the water, gazing into each others eyes as they whisper to one another. The boy gently holds the girl's hand and leans in to say something that she finds pleasing as the corners of her mouth curl up into a soft smile. A group of elderly gentlemen, sit back in their chairs ordering multiple rounds of tea while smoking countless cigarettes. They talk about a multitude of things, often nodding and shaking their heads, while they fiddle with rosary beads looped between their fingers. Their conversations are sometimes broken up by brief chuckles or moments of silence as they look out upon the Bosphorus. Never once do they allow their voices to get too loud or their laughter to disturb the other patrons. 30 something girlfriends, in floral summer dresses and leather sandals, sip cups of Turkish coffee between bouts of giggles. With slim cigarettes held between their fingers, their hand gestures tell a story which intrigues me.

This is the Istanbul I love. The Istanbul overflowing with generosity, passion and chaos.

Today, it is the chaos of this city that I want to write about. For those visiting, you may not encounter these quirks. However, for those of us who have chosen this beautiful city to reside in, these quirks become topics of complaints far too frequently.

The following is a list, in my opinion, of the things one must accept to live with when choosing to live in Istanbul.

10. Turkish pride can be overzealous. Every piece of history is somehow always linked back to the Ottomans :)

9. If you're at a restaurant and don't want the waiter to take your plate away, you may have to hold on for dear life. They are notorious for clearing away plates even before the last bite hits your mouth.

8. But if you ever want something repaired or official work done, don't hold your breath. It will happen when the person in charge is ready to do it.

7. Foreign women will be stared at and/or hassled by Turkish men. This may in fact hold true for all women in Istanbul.

6. Living in this city is expensive and every year the cost of living continues to rival that of any other major city in the world.

5. You can never get peace of mind in Istanbul. There isn't a park bench, side street or dark alley that isn't uninhabited.

4. Urban sprawl is out of control. Obnoxious skyscrapers, gated condominium blocks, and shopping centers are sprouting up all over the city. There is no end.

3. People walk right in to you, as if you weren't there to begin with. More often than not, they will expect you to get out of their way. Don't fight it. Just weave through the crowds like everyone else!

2. This leads me to my next point. Everyone is in a mad rush. There are cars, buses, minibuses, taxis, and motorcycles all fighting for space on the ever expanding network of streets and highways. No one follows the rules. It is very normal to see a six-lane traffic jam on a two-lane street.

1. The worst part of traffic in Istanbul, has to be the always aggressive and crafty taxi driver. The municipality had to set up a hotline for customer grievances to deal with complaints regarding over-charges, unsafe driving and refusals of service. Proceed with caution!

If you can make peace with the afore mentioned common complaints many who live in Istanbul have, then we welcome you with big smiles and generous hearts!