Tuesday, April 21, 2015

Spring in Kadikoy

The first day of spring marks the beginning of a new season, the blooming of new life and the beginning of a new year in some cultures. It is also my favorite time in this city. The Bosphorus sparkles as if millions of diamonds were scattered atop a bed of sapphires and emeralds. Trees bear the first signs of tiny leaves budding from the branches and the sound of birds chirping is even more clearer. 

Today the sun shines bright over my neighborhood of Istanbul, as if it were on display; illuminating the previously darkened nooks and crannies people walked so quickly past during the damp and harsh winter. I can hear the hum of people out on the street from my window. The first day of spring in Kadikoy is not to be missed and this beautifully sun lit day could in no way be spent sitting at home. 

Turks, very similar to the Italians, have already perfected the art of lavishing during the day for absolutely no reason and offer no apologies for it. In Italian it’s known as ‘il dolce far niente’. And, today, there is even more of a reason to do just that. To luxuriate in the warmth of this spring sun, as you breathe in the crisp cool air. 

As I walk out I realize all the cafes are buzzing with chatter; orders for tea, coffee and pastries are being hurled at the wait staff. But I want to start my day by indulging in my favorite breakfast treat. Gozleme. The thin layers of dough perfectly filled with your choice of potatoes, seasoned minced meat or spinach and cheese, or any combination thereof. The best place to get it made exactly the way you like it has to be at ‘Organik Cafe’ located in the Osmanağa neighborhood at 32 Yoğurtçu Şükrü Sokak. A family run business with fantastic home cooked meals, made fresh to order. Even though my mom doesn't know how to cook Gozleme, if she did, I imagine it would taste like this! The special thing about this place is that you can request to get ‘Manti’ (Turkish Ravioli in a garlic yogurt dressing) sauce poured on top of the Gozleme and indulge in a medley of flavors. 

Following this decadent breakfast I make my way up to ‘Bahariye Caddesi’ for some window shopping and people watching. The Bull statue is definitely one of those places in Kadikoy from which everything starts and ends. The street I’m after does just that. Starting at the Bull, I walk up Bahariye, weaving through the groups of women and men. Looking at the shops flanking this street you could literally be anywhere in the world; Carls Jr., Starbucks, GNC, Mango, all catering to the metropolitan shopper. But you’re immediately transported back to the city, with the calls of freshly baked ‘simit’. After some window shopping, I make my way towards ‘Antikacilar Çarsisi’  which is Kadikoy’s Antique market located on a side street between ‘Bahariye Caddesi and Balik Pazari’ (Fish Market), which the area is so notably known for. 

A good place to start, and close to where I want to be, is ‘Tellalzade Sokagi’. With a scattering of antique shops selling second hand furniture, books, instruments, little knick knacks and an abundance of odds and ends, there is plenty to search through. Other places to venture off to if you’re in search for some relics/treasures would be ‘Dr. Esat Isik Caddesi’ and of course ‘Moda Caddesi’ itself; home of the infamous ‘Kadiköy Antikacilar Çarsisi’. You can spend hours rummaging through the selection of dust ridden, weather worn, tattered antiques as shop owners let you wander and drift off to a time when the item was new and in its full glory. 



Once you have filled your hearts desire of antiques, you can head across ‘Sogutlu Çesme’ to get to a restaurant serving up some of the best food from the Black Sea region. Lunch at ‘Cadde Karadeniz’ near the Bull is the place to try rich, home-cooked specialties from that part of Turkey. Located pretty close to the Bull at 67 Sogutlu Çesme Caddesi, ‘Mürver Çiçeği Sokak’ the service is great and the food is sumptuous. I have never been to that region myself, but friends from there have said the food at this restaurant is pretty close to it. They usually have daily specials on the menu and the wait staff is always happy to make recommendations. It isn’t the cheapest meal you can get in Kadikoy, but it definitely is one of the tastiest.  

If you’re in search of a drink, anytime of day, then the place to be is ‘Saklibahce’. A hidden gem, in my opinion. The unassuming entrance from ‘Balik Pazari’ leads you to a garden which could easily have been mistaken for a courtyard of the apartments surrounding it. This is the place to take a break from the crowds and the noise of people and scooters whizzing by. Drinks are reasonably priced and the service is great. However, I don’t recommend spending money on anything other than fries or nuts. People don’t usually go here for the food, so it’s best to avoid items that might not taste they way you expect them to. But a plate of fries and a beer suits me just fine on any given day! The garden is partially sheltered by lattice woodwork covered by thick vines, which is meant to keep it cool during the humid summer months. But on a day like today, beams of sunlight shoot at the stoney ground all around, illuminating the cracks and weathered stone that have probably seen better days.  

As restlessness begins to kick in, I decide it’s time I search for some silver jewelry, which I love to collect. My ever growing collection of rings and bangles weighs heavy on my wallet, but that has yet to stop me. This city is the place for silver, if you’re a junkie like me. This is the place to look for unique pieces with intricate engravings of floral and paisley motifs. Silver shops are scattered around the main shopping area of Kadikoy but some of my favorites can be found on ‘Mürver Çiçeği Sokak’ (the same street as the ‘Cadde Karadeniz’ restaurant), and a corner shop at the end of ‘Balik Pazari’ street called 925 Silver & Accessories. Of course there are many more that you come across during your wanderings that haven’t warranted a website or an official listing; mainly because it usually is a one man operation with the craftsman selling his unique designs out of small shop, with barely enough room for him or his tools. This is where you get to practice your bargaining skills. I have found that these shops tend not to rip you off because they aren’t frequented by tourists as much, and the sellers aren’t selling their merchandise at ridiculously marked up prices. 

If you feel like you have had your fair share of shopping, walk down to the pier to burn off those extra calories and make room for a noteworthy dinner which will, indefinitely, leave you wanting more. The original ‘Çiya Sofrası’, offers a selection of decadent regional foods from around Turkey that are quite palatable. Some of the meals include eggplants stuffed with minced meat, chickpeas in a yogurt based sauce accompanied by freshly baked bread, and a Turkish style soup and salad bar. The original restaurant is located at 43 ‘Güneşlibahçe Sokak’, not far from ‘Balik Pazari’ and the vegetarian version of the chain serving equally delicious cuisine is nearby. On the corner you’ll find Çiya Kebap serving some of the best cuts of meat grilled to succulent perfection. During the warm summer months, their outdoor seating is almost always at full capacity with people hovering around, waiting for a table. The food here is unrivaled and is on all those ‘must’ lists for people coming to Kadikoy. 


After a dinner fit for the Ottoman kings themselves, I am ready to call it quits. But I take the long way back home, with the view of the Blue Mosque, Topkapi Palace and the Hagia Sophia illuminated in the distance, I feel truly lucky to call this city home.