After 9 grueling hours on the bus, we had arrived in Izmir at 2 am. Now, coming from Istanbul, we were apprehensive to be walking around the city at that hour. The streets downtown were abandoned. If it were Istanbul, we would be holding on to our bags real tight and speed walking home. But in Izmir, it felt different. It felt safe. The air smelt so clean, the streets were not lined with trash and the men we came across at 2 in the morning, didn't even notice us walk by. One elderly gentleman helped us out with directions and we were both taken aback by how polite he was and his lack of aggressive mannerisms. Living in Istanbul makes you skeptical about a lot of things and a lot of people. Everyone always talks about how nice people are and how progressive the city is compared to the 'Bul and you don't realize it until you get there.
Having read great reviews of the 'Kemeralti pazar', we were expecting to see something similar to the multitude of 'pazars' (markets) found in Istanbul. It is massive and very easy to get lost in the alleys that break off into even smaller passages. You can shop for anything and everything there and an added bonus is that the prices are lower than Istanbul. However, we were left wanting more which probably had to do with the vast variety of markets we have been to in Istanbul. Not giving up, we kept on walking through the maze of sparkling fabric stores, antique shops and tea and coffee cafes looking for a hidden treasure. Then we came across Kizlaragasi Hani, a not so hidden treasure, that many travel blogs and sites don't talk about.
Kizlaragasi Hani (an old inn converted into a shopping market) is paradise if you love everything handmade. From handcrafted silver jewelry and leather goods to organic soaps and other little trinkets. The market itself has a very rustic feel. Small shops are like coves in the aging brick structure. The brick archway entrance leads to alleys lit by the fluorescent and yellow lights shining from shop windows. Brightly colored fabrics and tapestry hang from the walls, interspersed with beautifully crafted Turkish lamps twinkling in red, gold and violet. All the little passages lead to a courtyard where people sit on wooden stools around wooden tables sipping tea and freshly brewed coffee. It is the perfect spot to take a break and admire the beautiful architecture around you. The courtyard itself is shaded by a canvas tent with colorful tassels hanging off all four edges. Terra-cotta roof shingles jut out right above the first floor of the building, but the brick structure continues to a second floor offering more cafes and restaurants. While sitting in the courtyard, you notice pairs of rectangular windows lined all along the inside of the building. Each window is framed by a deeper red brick which form domes at the top. All the exposed brick and lack of ornate decorative painting is evocative of the Byzantine Empire. The simplicity of the structure is beautifully contrasted by the colors seen in all the small shops.
After a few well spent hours, we decided to make our way down to the pier. After a few wrong turns, I gave in and let my friend pull out her trusted map that she had used intermittently throughout our day. Despite my efforts of getting her to relax and see where the path leads us, she won. She pulled the map out of her efficiently packed handbag filled with suncream, wet wipes, antibacterial gel and tissues, flattened out the folds and wrinkles and proceeded to identify our specific location. Her aim was to get us out of the maze I led us into. Bless her! I don't know what I would have done without her. A couple of minutes, a cigarette and a couple of frowns later she knew exactly how we needed to get to the waterfront.
On the way to the pier, we stopped at the 'Saat Kulesi' (a.k.a. Clock Tower) at Konak Square. In the open square, the beautiful Ottoman architecture really stands out. At the base there are four brass water taps with large marble basins, frequently used by the locals to cool off during the day. In the evenings, the tower lights up with an amber glow, beautifully displaying the carvings, etchings and domes of the structure.
The Izmir's city center is fairly small and easy to navigate through (especially if you've got a map) and it wasn't long before we arrived at the pier. The infamous Konak Pier has a fairly large modern structure housing designer shops and restaurants right on the water. Walking along the pier itself is lovely. The waves crash against the rocks and water sprays up on to the sidewalk. There are many cafes and restaurants all along the water in a neighborhood called Alsancak. In the evening, everyone comes out to this area. The best part of the night was Alsancak Barlar Sokagi (Alsancak Bar Street). Bars and clubs, one after another, line the narrow cobbled street. Music blares from every opening, drinks flow from every bar and people are sitting, standing and dancing everywhere. With a great vibe, it is the place to dance the night away.
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